10-21-2012: KST (Waikane [Ka`aumakua] to Waiahole Uka)

Head north--- Thru hiking the Ko'olaus? ---Head south

The last time I did the Waikane trail was in 2009 and it was one of my most miserable hikes I've done.  The weather was so unforgiving with torrential rain and gale force winds that I didn't even make it to Pu'u Ka`aumakua, the official trail terminus.  It would be be nearly 3 years later before I would make my return, but this time I was to go to the summit and beyond to Waiahole Uka, the Ko`olau windward partner of it's leeward counterpart, Kipapa Trail.  My last Ko`olau summit hike was Manana to Waiahole Uka.  This hike would mark my very first trek on the graded Ko`olau Summit Trail, a trail built into the rolling hills of the northern Ko`olau mountains between Pupukea and Kipapa.

Joining me on this day would be Thessa and Gerwin.  We pushed off from the main highway at around 6am and began a long road walk to the start of Waikane Trail.  About a mile in we began to hear the sounds of dogs barking.  Around the bend, our headlamps pierced the darkness and revealed a pair of glowing eyes.  Much to our dismay a group of dogs were blocking the road.  We stood for sometime, wondering if they will be friendly to us or finding ourselves running back to the road as they would attempt to maul us to death.  Soon, a black dog would decide it was going to be the bravest of the pack and approach us, wondering if we too were friendly or not.  The dog approached us cautiously and then soon sniffed us.  With it's tail wagging happily, first contact was established and "hostilities" ceased.  After being playful with the black dog,  it returned back to the rest of the pack and we began advancing slowly towards them.  Finally they backed off and we were on our way.  The first signs of daylight was now visible.  When the road was finally visible, we came across a huge landslide that apparently covered the road.  But we saw tire tracks and assumed that the big trucks just simply drove over the landslide to pick up the road on the other side.  Some further up, we crossed a small stream and arrived to the start of the trail, marked by an old storm drain.

Wasting no time, we made our way up the rather dull graded trail.  We talked stories along the way and the trail kept on winding around the gullies and side ridges.  Eventually the trail made a very sharp left but not before coming upon a wonderful lookout at Kahana Valley to the northeast.  About another 30 minutes to an hour later, the views of the windward Ko`olaus were upon us and we can in fact, see the remainder of the trail, etching into the windward pali just below the crest.  Since this was the actual KST, the summit trail contours below the crest, rather than on it's top.  Another hour or so passed and we came across a junction, marked by an old metal stake with ribbons on it.  Turn left almost 180 degrees to pick up a switchback to head up to Pu'u Ka`aumakua.  Continue straight and you're automatically on the KST heading towards Poamoho, which features the best stretch of summit walking because it almost exclusively contours the windward side!  This junction is crucial if you are coming in from Poamoho.  If it's socked in and you're not paying attention, it is incredibly easy to assume that you're still on the KST, but end up taking the wrong way at the junction and unknowingly continue down on the Waikane Trail!

The trail to Ka`aumakua from the junction is also part of the KST, but it's also the last leg of the Waikane Trail to reach the true summit.  Here, the trail begins to contour on the leeward side of the Ko`olau crest and spells doom for those hikers not wearing pants.  It is very overgrown and your legs will take a battering if you're not properly dressed!  Even with the recent "clearing" compared to decades ago, the overgrowth is relentless.  After crossing a clearing with a splendid view of northern windward O`ahu, we came across a grassy gully with a side trail heading up to the top of a pu'u.  Turns out this side trail is the final climb to reach Ka`aumakua, which is indicated with a geological bench mark.  At last, the Waikane Trail had been completed.  We proceeded to have lunch here.  The time was probably around 10am.  The views were incredible initially, but the clouds quickly rolled in, obscuring it.  The trade winds were in full force and we had to go just slightly leeward to feel reasonably comfortable.

We packed up and made our way back down to resume the grueling jaunt along the KST, heading southward.  For much of the way, leeward contouring is what is all about.  There were a few grassy clearings where a view of the windward side can be had, but it's very spotty.  Leeward, leeward, leeward, overgrown, overgrown, overgrown was the topic of the hour.  But the views of Ohulehule, Kahana, and Waikane when we did have a windward walk were well worth it!  Later on, the clouds were beginning to thicken and our hike became a walk in foggyland.  There were times that when we would round a spur ridge, we would think it was the wrong way because it appeared to head back the way we came from.  With no windward view for a reference point, our minds were being fooled.  Fortunately GPS on our smartphones confirmed the way was correct.  I highly recommend having some kind of navigational device with you.  You can seriously think you're lost and second guess yourself, leading you into a bad situation.

We soon came across a very large grassy gully that is dubbed the "wind tunnel".  It is no joke.  The winds felt like hurricane force winds and literally knocked us off balance.  We had to bend forward and push against the howling wind.  But don't fret.  Once you get to the other side of the grassy gully, the winds quickly cease as the trail heads back to it's leewardness.  On the next bend or two, I noticed a familiar hill off in the distance and pointed it out that it could be Waiahole Uka.  Once we rounded this hill, I immediately noticed the Sugipine trees that we've encountered when we did the hike from Manana.  We were here at last!  We quickly beelined it up the hill to gain the summit.  And by the time we did, the clouds gracefully lifted off and we had views all around us!  I looked back along the summit crest and saw the hill with the huge landslide etched into it, marking the Kipapa terminus.

After taking in the views, we headed downwards.  We headed very downwards.  I purposely used bad grammar on that last sentence because that's all it does: go downwards.  It's very hard on the knees and toes as we had to battle gravity to do a controlled descent.  The two rope sections were passed and it became a sea of uluhe all the way down to the valley trail.  Once on the valley trail, we made our way out back to our car that we staged earlier in the morning.

Finally I can put Waiahole Uka to rest for good.

Waikane (Kaʻaumakua) to Waiahole Uka (GoPro 2 POV)

8-9/10/2012: Manana to Waiahole Uka

Head north--- Thru hiking the Ko'olaus? ---Head south

With so much time and energy devoted to flying, I haven't done a major hike this year.  That all changed when Thessa would join me on one very long hike, going up the long roller coasting trail of Manana Ridge and crossing over 4 miles of the rugged Ko`olau summit ridge to reach Waiahole Uka.  From there, we would descend it's steep windward ridge to the bottom of Waiahole Valley.  In fact, it was so long and grueling that it took us a day and a half to complete due to getting confused on one particular section of the Ko`olau summit, which I have to admit could have been avoided if I researched into this area a little bit more.  Some other hikers gave me a heads up on that section of the crest days before we would set off, but for some reason, I've failed to interpret it clearly.

We set off around 6:30am on the Manana Ridge Trail.  With virtually no conditioning at all for just about this entire year, my pace was staggeringly slower, which contributed to the longer than usual hike time.  Up and down we went on the never ending roller coaster ridge.  If tracks were laid from the trailhead to the summit with a train starting from the summit, this ridge would be perfect for a 6 mile long roller coaster ride!  After some 4 hours later, we finally acquired the summit and took in the windward views.  With an overall overcast sky over the summit, coupled by brisk trades, it made for rather chilly conditions.  Wasting no time, we headed in a north, northwest direction along the crest towards Waiahole Uka.

A short time later, we've reached a grassy meadow that has been dubbed "The Corner", where the crest makes a sharp turn to the west before gradually heading more north.  It is here where one can view the green expanse of Waiahole Valley.  Clouds began to make their way over the crest, obscuring the view at times, but it was never a complete washout, at least not yet.  Continuing on, the summit ridge began it's downward descent into a saddle what is apparently called the Wahiawa Gap.  Numerous pu'u made for more roller coasting action, but overall elevation was lost.  It was on the ascent to regain the lost elevation that made for serious huffing and puffing.  Just before the lowest point, we came across another grassy bowl where the trail heads slightly leeward from the crest.  Clouds and wind blanketed and buffeted us relentlessly in this section, but the conditions quickly cleared up for more spectacular views with clouds dancing all around us.  Time was beginning to go against us and it was probably already 4 or 5pm when we finally reached other side of the Wahiawa Gap.  Progress was painstakingly slow but we remained confident that we could reach Waiahole Valley before dark.

All of that would be thrown out the window when we reached the Kipapa summit, marked by a sign on a broad hill.  Normally with good visibility, we would have easily made out where the summit continued.  But just before topping out on Kipapa, the clouds came back with a vengeance and this time the clouds got very thick, reducing visibility to maybe a quarter mile or less.  Also, the sun was just about to set.  With no visual reference, we were inclined to continue straight ahead across the hill to descend it's other side.  But the grade of the slope turned very very steep, and there was no hint of a trail at all.  We backtracked to the sign and discovered the trail making it's descent on the windward side of the grassy hill.  By this point, the last remaining light was all but gone and out came our headlamps.  Winds began to pick up exponentially and rain began to pelt us.  Not good.  What appeared to be a side trail heading leeward down into a dry gulch was discovered but there was no sign of any trail on the dry streambed.  We followed the crest trail until it makes a sharp descent.  With sunlight, it would be easy to see what was ahead, but it was virtually pitch black and it seemed like the trail simply disappeared here.  Growing frustrated, we headed back up to the grassy hill again with the sign and began exploring westward but to no avail.  We discussed further plans, including over nighting.  We headed back down again towards windward and to our surprise, the clouds lifted, revealing the city lights of Kaneohe to the south.  Coming up on the sharp descent again, I decided to push forward this time.  I've encountered a ledge and climbed down it, followed by Thessa.  A next hill loomed ahead, but not before encountering another side trail heading leeward down into what appeared to be the same stream bed I've encountered before.  Ignoring it, I kept to the crest and tried to climb the next hill but the trail disappeared.  There was no sign at all that anyone continued up this hill.  Growing tired, we decided to call it a night and headed back to that side trail and with winds absent on this particular spot, this would be our sleeping spot for the night.  Little did we know that this side trail would be the correct path, which we would find out by morning.

At around 6:30am, we packed up and continued on our way.  I noticed the half moon in the sky and realized that the clouds were no longer over the summit!  I looked up and saw the huge grassy hill that marks the terminus of Kipapa.  However, Thessa pointed out something that I did not notice before, a massive landslide on it's windward slope.  Then I remembered what the other hikers said about the landslide and gears began to turn in my head at last.  After enjoying a wonderful sunrise, I've headed down the side trail into the dry stream bed and found much to my surprise, a contour trail!  And it headed north!  Excitement filled my head and my pace began to quicken.  I looked up and saw why the hill on the crest was not climbed.  Apparently, I hate contour trails so much that I like to keep true to the crest.  :-)

We eventually came across a grove of Sugi pines with what appeared to be metal remains of a cabin.  We were back on familiar territory.  Just ahead was the summit of Waiahole Uka!  The clouds filled the summit again and we were eager to head home.  Going east, we picked up a trail leading down a windward spur.  As we dropped quickly in elevation, the clouds lifted again and revealed a magnificent view of Mokoli`i, more commonly known as "Chinaman's Hat".  Ohulehule and the ridge line over Kualoa stood tall and proud.  Looking back to the south, we saw where we came from.  Hard to believe we came all the way from there.

Heading down the ridge was beginning to take it's toll on my toes.  I dropped back as Thessa took the lead and rocketed downward.  One word can basically summarize this ridge, DOWN if you're heading down and UP if you're heading up.  No and's, if's, or but's.  The ridge narrows considerably at times, but there are so many trees to use for security and for brakes in this case.  Eventually I came across a red rope section and the grade was near vertical here, but holds are present everywhere, along with the rope.  Heading further down, I've encountered a yellow strap accompanied by some cables.  From there, the ridge continues it's steep descent until it gradually shifts to the right into a sea of uluhe.  Despite the sometimes thick uluhe, the trail is easily discernible and soon I met up with Thessa resting on the junction with the Kuolani-Waianu Trail that meanders it's way around the ravines of Waiahole Valley.  After a few stream crossings, a man made waterfall, and one final stream crossing, the jeep road was reached and finally the gate leading to the paved road at last concluding our hike, some 30 hours after we started!

Want to thank the pilot of the red RLU-1 Breezy for giving us a ride back to our cars even though your car battery died!  Coasting down the valley road with no use of gasoline at all was pretty cool!  We were able to coast all the way to Kam. Hwy before finding someone to jump his car.  What an epic adventure!  The Ko`olau summit saga continues...

P.S.: I was told that apparently the actual Ko`olau Summit Trail (KST) starts leeward of the Kipapa Trail, thus bypassing the summit ridge and the Sugi pine grove completely, intersecting the Waiahole Summit on it's leeward side.  Maybe coming in from Waikane on the KST, I'll explore this segment in detail.

Manana to Waiahole Uka (GoPro 2 POV)