Thursday, March 13, 2014

11-1-2013: Waiʻanae Summit Trail - Kaʻena Point to KPSTS

I want to wish all of you a Happy 4th of July, Happy Halloween, Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, Happy Valentine's Day, and soon to be Happy St. Patrick's Day!  That's because the last time I've updated this was back in June of last year!  I've been just so busy with life that I couldn't even keep up with this blog.  I am also extremely behind in video documentation.  Remember the time in late 2012 to early 2013 when the lava fields were active down by Kalapana, Big Island?  I still have video footage of that event that I still have yet to release.  The year in review video for 2012 and 2013 was a bust.  Talk about wishing that there were 25 hours in a day.  Will I ever get all of these out to you?  I'll stop making promises but someday, maybe 20 years from now, I just might.  However, during this long period of absence from the blog, I was able to document Oʻahu's western mountain range, the Waiʻanae Mountain Range or the Waiʻanaes for short.  The Waiʻanaes is the older of the two ancient remnants of the two shield volcanoes that formed the island of Oʻahu.  Both have had makai (ocean) facing flanks destroyed in massive landslides.  The Koʻolau lost it's windward flanks about a million years ago and the Waiʻanae lost it's leeward flank about 3 million years ago, forming the shape of the island that we recognize today.

Just like the Koʻolaus, I wanted to document the Waiʻanaes by hiking it's entire summit ridge in segments also known as section hiking (as opposed to thru hiking).  The first segment would be the northwestern most end of the Waiʻanae Mountains from Kaʻena Point to a point on the crest that contains the Kaʻena Point Satellite Station, which is operated by the United States Air Force.  But before you continue reading this write up, please read the following paragraph as I will also include this for all the upcoming write ups of this mountain range.

CAUTION: The Waiʻanae Mountain Range is located on properties owned by the U.S. government, the U.S. military of all branches, the state of Hawaiʻi via departments, and private owners. The mountain ridges and valleys are also home to a delicate and vast array of native plants, animals, and insects. Please take care not to disturb them or their native habitats and always seek permission to access these lands. Always do your research prior to setting out. And finally, once you are out there, always minimize your impact to the environment and of course, be safe.

On this cool clear November morning, Zack, Jon, Marc, Jani, and myself began the first segment of the Waiʻanaes.  Our goal today was to hike out to Kaʻena Point, climb up the ridge line that rises up from the nature preserve which makes up the point itself, and hike along the crest of the Waiʻanae Summit Ridge to KPSTS where there are numerous large white golf ball like structure that house the U.S.A.F. tracking equipment.  One can see these structures clearly from Keawaula Bay, otherwise more commonly called Yokohama Beach or Yoks for short.  From KPSTS, we were to continue all the way to the terminus of the Kealia Trail.  This trail heads down from the summit and north towards Dillingham Airfield.  We opted to start from Mokulēia side because the Keawaula side is too sketchy to stage cars.  The hike to Kaʻena Point was a nice walk under a cool morning sun.  Upon reaching the perimeter fence and it's elevator looking gate of the nature preserve, we headed left, following the fence line until it reached it's highest point.  Here, a faint trail heads upward to a few pillboxes and marks the start of the Waiʻanae Summit Ridge.  This trail appeared to actually receive quite a bit of foot traffic, at least up to the pillboxes.  Upon reaching the first pillbox, a view of Kaʻena Point not commonly seen awaits.  The shape of the point actually resembles a bow of a cruise ship, appearing to plow forward through the bluer than blue ocean of the Pacific.  There were probably around 4 or 5 pillboxes before the trail continues upward to a fence and a few structures of some kind behind it.  It did not take long to realize that we were approaching the KPSTS.






Being a military installation, we had to engage ninja mode for this next section.  If we were to make it to Kealia Trail, we were required to traverse through this installation in it's entirely as it sits completely on the crest of the summit ridge.  It's like in those classic Nintendo or Sega Genesis video games where you have to navigate your character through a set course through a level without being spotted by cameras or an enemy guard.  If you were to get caught, you get a message "Hey!  You're not supposed to be in here!", the screen goes black, and you find your character back at the start of of the level where you have to try again and again and again to progress further in the game.  Today, there would be no reset button or going back to the start of the perimeter fence to try again and again.  If you get caught anywhere on the installation, the military police will escort you down the road and drop you off at Keawaula Beach.  Since we didn't have any cars staged there, it made things problematic for us.

When we reached the fence perimeter of the KPSTS, we followed the fence line on it's northern side.  Soon a very smooth paved road came into view and we could see it head gradually upward, following the crest.  The fence line ended and we were soon walking on this paved road, following it.  Around us were some buildings that housed antennas of some kind and a white golf ball tracking equipment.  We continued to follow up on the paved road when we saw a truck coming towards us from the other direction.  We didn't think much to make an effort to hide.  We just simply kept walking up the road, towards the truck.  The truck stopped and the driver asked what we were doing here and if we knew this was government property.  He then told us that there was a dirt road that parallels the government paved road directly on the north side.  He appeared to be a contract worker and not an MP and pretended that he didn't see us.  So we hopped a ranch looking fence and started walking on the dirt road.  We later found out that this road belonged to DLNR, or the Department of Land and Natural Resources.




We continued on this dirt road for some time and came upon a couple junctions.  We chose the path that kept us relatively closest to the paved road.  Unfortunately, the dirt road ended back onto the paved road, which we were warned not to be on.  We tried to backtrack on a few of those junctions and see if there was any headway around KPSTS but to no avail.  We had probably less than 1,000ft before we cleared KPSTS and were back on hunting grounds.  Jani decided to scout ahead on this paved road for any guard shacks and sure enough there was one.  After a few minutes, she returned, saying the guard will pretend that he didn't see us and pointed to the direction of the trail that would take us to Kealia.  Unfortunately that mean't having to continue on the paved road until we reached said trail.  Off we went and we attempted to book it faster than normal.  We came across a parking area where we spotted some people in civilian clothing.  They said they obtained permits to hike the area so that is some good tidbits to know for the future.  We didn't waste time and continued on our way east on the paved road.  We saw more golf ball structures along the way, which made for a Star Wars feel.  We came across our last bend before we made it to the other side of the installation and back into hunting grounds.  I was following Marc when I noticed Jani and Jon far behind us.  Then we heard the sirens far behind us.  DARN!  We actually didn't see the MP but we also noticed that Jani and Jon were not coming up behind us.  We knew they got caught.  Marc thought for a split second to dash into the brushes on our left but I didn't want to leave them behind.  We stood there for a couple minutes, debating our next move.  Had we just simply continued to walk, we probably would have made it to the hunting area.  Regardless, the MP came up to us in his police truck and told us to get in the truck bed to be escorted off.  Behind him was another government official in his car with Jani and Jon.  We've been caught and knew our hike had come to an end today so we complied without second thought.




When we started down the road switch backs, we were treated to a cool view of Yokohama Beach below.  I thought about filming and taking photos but decided against it.  Upon reaching the bottom, we all got off and the guards said nothing more.  We walked over to the bathroom area of the beach.  Jani and Jon told us that the government official who was driving them in his car had actually debated with the MP in letting us continue on our merry way which could explain the long delay in getting Marc and I.  That would have been nice if they did, since we were only mere feet from crossing back into hunting grounds.  Then we all realized we were at the west side when our cars were staged on Mokulēia!  That meant we had to circumnavigate around the point to get back to our cars, which meant another 5 or 6 extra miles to hike!  Well, we did it and it was actually a pretty neat coastal hike.  When we reached the start of that faint trail again that we took up this morning, I jokingly said "Let's try again!".

With our trek cut short on this day, I had to think that if I were to segment hike the Waiʻanaes, that meant having to visit KPSTS from Kealia, which will be written on a future write up.  Stay tuned!

Friday, June 14, 2013

Completion of the Koʻolau Mountain Range


It was March 6th, 2008 when I did my first "hike", up to the top of  Lēʻahi, otherwise known as Diamond Head, the iconic crater that forms the skyline of Waikīkī.  From it's summit, I saw the cityscape in it's entirely.  Then, my eyes shifted towards the mountain range that dwarfs the urban city sprawl.  My curiosity got the best of me.  What was up there?  There was only one way to find out.  It was August 19th, 2008 when I hiked the Na Ala Hele state trail of Kuliʻouʻou and saw the windward view from the top of the Koʻolau Mountain Range for the first time in my life.  I eventually acquired Stuart Ball's "A Hiker's Guide to Oʻahu" and would continue to hike more trails up to different spots of the Koʻolaus.  The views were majestic from every point of the mountain range.  But I've noticed that there seemed to be a trail that went either left or right of each summit point of their respective trails.  I began to wonder, could all of these summit points be connected by way of what I've learned was the summit trail?

I began to research this summit trail and found virtually no documentation on the internet, except for a few old OHE (O'ahu Hiking Enthusiasts) articles with some film photographs that were scanned to digital.  I would soon discover Kaleo Lancaster's "Island Trails" blog with some information regarding the summit trail.  But overall, the entire summit trail from Pūpūkea to Makapuʻu was very little documented.  I wanted to change that.  I began my personal quest of section hiking the Koʻolau Mountain Range.  I started by connecting the southern portion of the range from Konahuanui to Makapuʻu.  It was then I would learn of the three Koʻolau saddles, the most dangerous portions of the entire mountain range.  There was one saddle that was virtually undocumented, the infamous Kalihi Valley Saddle or Kalihi Saddle for short.  As I made more friends in the local hiking community, we would set off to pioneer these saddles and document them in full detail for the future generation of hikers to come.  It was during the summer of 2011 when Marcus Griego, Jeremy Kreis, Michael Loftin, Rhonda Hutchinson, and myself became the first group of hikers to successfully traverse and document the Kalihi Saddle in it's entirely, at least during modern times.

All I had left to do now was document the northern Koʻolaus.  This area requires a lot of planning as the connector trails are much more scarce and the Koʻolau Summit Trail itself is very overgrown to the point of it not being discernible.  Also the topography is nothing but rolling hills everywhere you look, making navigation very difficult.  Once I had all the connector trails and the distance between them via the KST analyzed enough, my hiking friends and I proceeded to successfully section hike the remainder of the northern Koʻolaus to become among one of the first pioneers to traverse and document the Ko'olau Mountain Range from Pūpūkea to Makapuʻu.

On July 11, 2009, I did my very first Koʻolau summit traverse from Moanalua Middle Ridge to the Haʻikū Stairs. On May 5th, 2013, I did my very last Koʻolau summit traverse from Castle to Laʻie to complete the entire summit spine of the Koʻolau Mountain Range by section hiking via connector trails.

Below is a list (sorted by date) of every single hike I've done to "connect the dots" on the Koʻolau summit spine from Pupukea to Makapuʻu.  Some of these may overlap one another so take note of that when comparing these on a map.

7-11-2009: Moanalua Middle Ridge to Haʻikū Stairs (write up) (video)
1-21-2010: Kuliʻouʻou Ridge to Puʻu O Kona (write up) (video)
5-5-2010: Tripler Ridge to Haʻikū Stairs (video)
5-18-2010: Bowman to Haʻikū Stairs (video)
6-26-2010: Mariner's Ridge to Kuliʻouʻou (write up)(video)
9-12-2010: Halawa Ridge to Haʻikū Hidden Stairs (video)
10-8-2010: Olympus to Konahuanui (write up)(video)
10-18-2010: Olympus to Puʻu O Kona (write up) (video)
1-9-2011: Makapuʻu to Mariner's Ridge (write up) (video)
2-19-2011: Pali Lookout (Notches) to Konahuanui - Nuʻuanu Saddle (write up) (video)
4-3-2011: Kaupo Cliffs #3 to Hahaione Windward (write up) (video)
4-10-2011: Kamiloiki Ridge to Tom-Tom (write up) (video)
4-21-2011: Kulanaʻahane to Haʻikū Stairs - Moanalua Saddle (write up) (video)
5-10-2011: Kulanaʻahane to Red Hill Ridge - Moanalua Saddle (write up) (video)
5-15-2011: Pali Lookout (Puka) to Lanihuli - Nuʻuanu Saddle (write up) (video)
5-29-2011: Aiea Ridge to Kulanaʻahane - Moanalua Saddle (write up) (video)
7-15-2011: Kahuauli (Bowman) to Wilson Tunnels - Kalihi Saddle (write up) (video)
8-4-2011: Lanihuli to Wilson Tunnels - Kalihi Saddle (write up) (video)
9-29-2011: Waimano Ridge to Aiea Ridge (write up) (video)
11-12-2011: Manana to Waimano Ridge (write up) (video)
8-9/10-2012: Manana to Waiahole Uka (write up) (video)
10-21-2012: Waikane (Kaʻaumakua) to Waiahole Uka (write up) (video)
12-29-2012: Waikane (Kaʻaumakua) to Poamoho (write up) (video)
3-9-2013: Castle to Poamoho (write up) (video)
4-6-2013: Laʻie to Pūpūkea (write up) (video)
5-5-2013: Castle to Laʻie (write up) (video)


I want to give out shoutouts to every single person who accompanied me on these long, dangerous, and arduous treks.  If it wasn't for people like these guys and girls, there would be absolutely no way I could do this.  MAHALO NUI LOA to each and every single one of you!  And of course I would like to say mahalo to all who have supported me during these years.  There were many challenges to be overcome.  There were many battle scars along the way.  There was even a 20ft fall.  There were times that I just wanted to give up and go home, but I kept pushing forward.  I've learned so much from these awesome mountains to help me become a better person in life.  This was one that I wanted to do for myself and now I can truly go to sleep every night, knowing that I no longer have to wake up at 2am to do a 14-18 hour hike!  ;-) 

Lucky we live Hawaiʻi!  

Imua!
Compilation of every single segment hike done.  Each clip is accompanied by it's aerial view!

Aerial footage of the Koʻolau Mountain Range from Makapuʻu to Pupukea (Be sure to watch in HD 1080p)

Another aerial footage of the Koʻolau Mountain Range from the other direction (Pupukea to Makapuʻu)

For those who can't view the embedded videos above can access them by following the link below: